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Post by roy on Nov 13, 2007 21:00:23 GMT -5
Someone point me to that Geo MC install.
I;ve picked up 3 of em so far & they;re all the wrong ones!
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Post by ca on Nov 13, 2007 21:19:47 GMT -5
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Post by roy on Nov 16, 2007 16:39:20 GMT -5
Thank you ,Thank you very much.
I;m going to try booster with my Stang 4 wheel disc MC, it does bolt on to the Geo Booster
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Post by gemini on Nov 16, 2007 19:18:13 GMT -5
what year master ?
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Post by roy on Nov 25, 2007 14:23:01 GMT -5
96,97 Stang 5.0
all you need to do is lengthen the center threaded rod as needed to acuate the geo piston.
Will it stop a car with 4 wheel disc brakes, not so far.
but, i think i have a bad booster or i;m not putting out enough vaccuum,so stay tuned
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Post by w2zero on Nov 25, 2007 16:32:16 GMT -5
That could be the issue with the vacuum. How much cam you got in there?
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Post by roy on Nov 27, 2007 16:55:20 GMT -5
cam is a Lunati
224/228@.50 .456 lift
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Post by w2zero on Nov 27, 2007 17:12:49 GMT -5
High lift and a lot of valve overlap will result in a poor vacuum signal.
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Post by roy on Nov 28, 2007 16:11:47 GMT -5
Its a problem alright.
I;ve just gone to the Currie Explorer rear disc set up too.
I;ve just read, in tech section of either car craft or one of those mags, a guy did same swap,
can;t stop the rears locking up because the Ex. rear discs work so well, even with prop. valve adjusted to fronts,
The tech, guys suggestion is to go with bigger or better(than the Granadas) front set up to match the Explorer rears.
I think my MC off a 97 Stang, which i;m using without the power booster, could be the culprit
Have to source a disc/disc manual mc, see if that helps
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Post by w2zero on Nov 28, 2007 16:42:54 GMT -5
I have the Granada front disc with the Motorsport M2300 rear discs and a manual disc/disc master cylinder. There is a second generation Camaro prop valve plumbed in too. Nothing else and it stops straight and quick with 205 tires in front with 225's in the rear. The master cylinder was given to me by a buddy with a 66 FIA Cobra replicar when he went to power brakes. I is the same mc that you will find in some Corvettes. s6.photobucket.com/albums/y237/w2zero/?action=view¤t=disdiscmc.jpg |
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Post by ca on Nov 29, 2007 16:09:26 GMT -5
i've reread this thread a couple times and it don't make no sense. but i'ma lil thickheaded( my mom ALWAYS told me that).
like where does the vacuum problem come in if your usin the master without the booster? cam isn't so big as to cause a low signal = i think the HO cam is more aggressive.no?
rears lockin up even with a prop valve adjusted to the front? i'd be changin prop valves first!
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Post by w2zero on Nov 29, 2007 16:32:25 GMT -5
Have you adjusted the prop valve the other way just for s**ts and giggles? Pretty sure Roy had an adjustable prop valve there ca. If you also have a factory style prop valve, they can require resetting after major brake work. If the factory valve "sees" a failure in the front, it will direct all the fluid pressure to the rear.
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Post by Meteorgirl on Nov 29, 2007 17:38:48 GMT -5
I agree with W2 on several things. Try adjusting the other way just for fun.
Also on the factory one, I THINK you reset them by unscrewing the switch in the middle, pump the brakes the put the switch back?? Something like that. I say the guys do it once.
Hubby has one of those Summit manual adjustable ones. He was able to adjust the FR to RR balance perfect between the giant Kelsy Hayes dual piston calipers on the front and the stock 58 Ford cylinders on the rear by trying it 1 turn at a time.
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Post by ca on Nov 29, 2007 17:57:23 GMT -5
you mean 4 piston? like on the Mustangs/Fairlanes? maybe you meant dual dual ;D
if not, which KH calipers did he use?
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Post by w2zero on Nov 29, 2007 23:11:31 GMT -5
My type of prop valve has to be reset any time the brakes are bled since the floating piston inside will go to the open side and seal it off as defective.
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