Custom headers for our meteors...

[Joeyman]

i just got a quote for my car. I was looking to get rid of my crappy headers for some nice custom made headers.

I think it is a little out of my price range.

this is what the guy quoted me.

Joey,
I appreciate your interest in having us do some work for you. I would say you could definately use a better flowing and better looking set of headers. A full custom set of tuned headers takes almost a full week to build and an average of $450 in materials. I do alot of custom headers and exhaust, in fact, I am doing a exhaust system in the shop now. Alot of people do not realize the amount of hours and materials that go into a job like this. If you are able to purchase a set of factory built headers for a car they are a fraction of the cost of custom built ones. They will not flow nearly as well or fit as well, but they will save you money. My shop labor rate is $55 per hour. The average set of headers cost between $1500 and $2000 depending on the car and size of tubing and other options that are available. Ceramic coating is available and encouraged, but does cost extra.

Thank you,

[w2zero]

That sounds about right for custom headers. If you put a BB Ford in there you can get the price down under 600. But then if you do the shock tower clearance kit, you may find some headers that will be a bolt in.

[mercurymeteor62]

Ok. Here's a question, is it worth putting that much money into a car that is basically street driven. I could see it in a motor built for srtrictly strip competition but not for a street car or weekend racer. Headers are to much of a pain for sreet use when a set of ported manifold and 2 1/2 exhaust are sufficiant. Beside Joey I thought your headers were a pretty sharp set up. Are they just wearin out??

[Joeyman]

Yeah I see your point with it being more of a street car. But with the motor I have it needs free flowing exhaust system to run at its best. My headers are not that free flowing they have a bunch of weird bends in them and are smashed to an oval shape in some spots for clearance issues.

I'd like to have step headers all mandrel bent for performance reasons. Trying to get the most out of my motor.

how is your car doing have you been driving it.

Mine is down just sitting in the driveway awaiting it's new rear-end

[w2zero]

Stepped headers are most effective at a fixed rpm, besides being easier to build. Sharp bends, twisties and ovalized tubing is a standard problem with a lot of supposedly "bolt on" headers so don't feel too bad. If you do the shock tower clearance ordeal then you very likely will be able to get a bolt on set of Chevy headers that will require very few changes. Just check out the price of doing the shock tower work and the price of Chebby headers (cheap) as opposed to having some custom fabbed and it should be a clear path to take.

[mercurymeteor62]

Yea went up to the last two shows at the church pretty good turn out. Seems to be a lot of Rat Rods lately, but actually they are pretty cool. Bought a 20t press if u need it for the pinion bearings you're more than welcome. Did rear axle bearings on mine and will probably have to put some heavy duty coil springs in. Car wasn't set up for 351 block, weight wise.
What did you do on the rear end 9, 8.8 or another 8 in??? You would would probably blow another 8 in. in time

[ca]

hey Joeyman, you mentioned step headers and i just read this thing in the past few days. it's from Engine Masters by Andy Dunn and dated 2004. just somethin to think about when yur thinkin about somethin.
"7. HEADERS - I took seven sets of headers to the dyno; I was certain that one pair would have the magic.

* Hooker (2 sets)
* Heddman
* Mac Performance
* Basanni
* Kooks (2 sets)

Once again, me and the lads at Westech Dyno were shocked that all of headers produced average scores within 5 points of each other. The headers had different peak horsepower and torque, but when you examine averages, the truth is revealed.

Most racers and engine builders want headers with primary and collector tube size diameters that are simply too large. My rule of thumb is to choose a header with a primary tube size, ten percent larger than the exhaust valve. Start in this range and test. In the 2004 engine master competition, most heads had 1.6" exhaust valves, and most competitors were running with 1.75" headers.

One of the more interesting tests we did while preparing at the dyno, was to run a set of 1.75" Kook's with a 3" collector VS. a 1.75" to 1.875" stepped Kook's with a merged collector. The difference in scores between the two headers was 1-2 points at best; that is 2 points out of 1,000. I've never been convinced that stepped headers or merged collectors make more power, and this test reinforced my beliefs. The two headers did have differing peak numbers, but peak is the false god...average is the true strength of the engine. Stepped headers and merged collectors are expensive. If merged collectors work, why do they work? It's my belief that they work by simply reducing the size of the collector (people choose collector diameters that are too large).

I wanted to test my size reduction theory; on the fourth day of pulls, with a standard set of 1.75" Hookers with a 3" collector, I mounted a pair of 2.5" collector reducers, inside the collector pipe. These reducers cost $25. We ran the test and picked up 2-3 average points. You can spend $500 on a pair of merged collectors, or you might try testing a cheap pair of collector reducers, fit inside your exhaust pipe. I think you will be pleased with the results.

[w2zero]

Pretty much done with the header optimum back when JC was corporeal. That's why the Hooker 6134's work so well with 1.625" primarys and a 2.5" collector. Some really old guys got it right...........after breaking a lot of engines and records.

[Joeyman]

(quote) Stepped headers are most effective at a fixed rpm, besides being easier to build. Sharp bends, twisties and ovalized tubing is a standard problem with a lot of supposedly "bolt on" headers so don't feel too bad. If you do the shock tower clearance ordeal then you very likely will be able to get a bolt on set of Chevy headers that will require very few changes. Just check out the price of doing the shock tower work and the price of Chebby headers (cheap) as opposed to having some custom fabbed and it should be a clear path to take. (quote)

I already have a slight shock tower modification. It would be nice to have an off the shelf header to fit the car but I don't think it will happen. Maybe just maybe if I can find an off the shelf header then slightly modify it that would be great. But how am I going to find that header that will almost work.

Here are some pictures of what I have now.

[ca]

i don't know how much of the work you want to do yurself but if it was me i would maybe think about a front mount for the engine and rear mounts would help with strength, then clear out the existing mounts and cross member. if my lil project with a front rack turns out good you could get rid of all that other crap under there and have a hugeass hole to play with.

[Joeyman]

what you talking about willis???

Yeah eliminating all that stuff and have one big opening would allow me to run a rear sump oil pan. Which I would really love.

Right now I have a 7 quart front sump pan on the car.

[ca]

back in the day we did a lot of swaps into weird combos, so to avoid all the probs with motor mounts and tryin ta find this n that to make it work a lot of guys would use front plates/front mounts. most of the drag racers used them and just about every boat did as well. they weren't that hard ta find or make even in metal shop in high school. check out the link. if it still aint clear i'll try ta find more info for you. i though a bout this for my Capri and haven't ruled it out yet.
link= www.campbellenterprises.com/mid_motor_plate.htm

[ca]

oh yeah, you can run them solid or with rubber/poly pads

[Joeyman]

OK I get the idea now but how will that work for me. If I put those on my car then what.....I don't get how that will help me. The shock towers are still there and so would all the steering stuff.

[w2zero]

The portion of the shock tower that is lowest and next to the upper inner a-arm shafts is the portion that gets removed for the Ford BB engines. That would allow for better bends out of the ports. Or just put the strut front end in there and have a lot more room.