How to change the clutch pedal

[johnc118]

Anyone here changed from automatic to a clutch? I have the pedal set and am going to do a cable clutch.

We will probably start with a junk yard 302 and 5 speed but will end up with a 450hp 347 and a TKO 6 speed in a couple years.

Anyhow anyone switched from slush box to manual cluth ped?

[STU]

I'm getting ready to do an auto to 5spd swap in my Merc....'m using a T5 from a 94 Mustang GT for a donor.

[ca]

i just did a change to original clutch from auto. i got the pedal from allshow. i'm gonna it convert to cable, easy enough just gonna tack or screw an extension for the cable end and go with that. if you can find an original pedal all you have to do is pull the brake pedal pin and slide the clutch pedal(with pin attached originally) and thats it for that part of it. theres a little protrusion on the clutch pedal that bumps the neutral switch so you need to remove the neutral switch like i did(have to in the future anyway) or knock the piece off the clutch arm= i left mine on for now in case i decide to use it as part of the setup later- but probly not. problem with this setup is that the pedals touch each other but it's easy enough to trim the pedals and weld or bolt sumpthin else on there and move the brake to the right a little bit. probly set up the brake n gas for some mad heal n toe'n as i'm goin through the gears n sawin on the wheel on one of them 360 degree freeway onramps.

[johnc118]

I have the complete cluthc, brake pedal assembly from a 63 Fairlane. with the bracket that holds it to the firewall.

Kind oif set the Meteor on the back burner to pay off some bills and am making plans for spring and summer.

Plans are to get in basiclly up and running with everything in place servicable then in two years do a complete teardown, replace the motor, trans, rearend with stronger units. Maybe even a different front end.

cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/63-65-Fairlane-Tubular-Upper-Lower-Control-Arm-Sets_W0QQitemZ190276981824QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item190276981824&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A543|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318

notice the lower A-arms, they are built for the stupid s curve in the meteor front ends.

My thinking is with w stronger motor 347 in the 450 HP range may need to do some subrame work.

Anyhow at this point I only have a concrete pad in front of the house and have traded enough taxidermy work for metal siding to either build a shop here or a shope in another location for both car garage and taxidermy shop. The only trouble is I might spend more time on the car than getting fish and deerhead ready.

[ca]

pretty sure the bracket is the same for auto or stick, just the pedals are different. you just gotta pull the hairclip off the pin and pull the pin out. brake pedal will come right out with the master push rod stuck to it. then just put in the other brake pedal and slide in the clutch pedal and pin combo then put the hairclip back on. looks like a PIA to change the whole bracket if you don't need to. it was tough enough with my neck/back probs that i had my son do most of the work. took'im about 15 minutes.

i'd like some fabbed control arms but thats about 30 to 50 bucks worth of metal that they're wanting 900 bucks for. i could screw it up a whole bunch of times and still save money ;D

[johnc118]

I have pulled the brake pedal off to make the adjustment for the new master cylinder.

Its been cold here and so shade tree mechanican is out of the question for now. Yea I am a wuss. Did all the cold mech work in the Army and before I knew better.

I am thinking about taking a lower a arm to a race chassis shop and asking what they would charge to build a tubular one from Chrome Moly. At 900 hundred it may be cheaper to have them built. But then at 900 put some more money with it and get a M-II front end.