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Post by meteorman on May 18, 2012 1:24:21 GMT -5
Meteor pics New wheels and tires Meteorman
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Post by Rob on May 18, 2012 7:23:55 GMT -5
They look good, are they 15"? I always wondered how a set of smoothies would look on my car.
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Post by meteorman on May 18, 2012 11:19:26 GMT -5
16" / tires are 225-60-16 METEORMAN
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jg
Junior Member
Posts: 68
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Post by jg on May 19, 2012 8:41:32 GMT -5
........nice work, you nailed the stance, did you have any clearance problems & did you have to rework the suspension?
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Post by w2zero on May 19, 2012 11:24:42 GMT -5
Shouldn't have to rework anything since the final tire height is 26 5/8" which is very nearly the same as stock original tire height. Only potential problems would be with the wheel backspacing and then mostly only if the car were lowered. Wider tires could cause rubs at full lock on the back of the inside of the wheel wells, especially on the left front at the fuel line. Even then, that rub would be most common only when backing up when the front suspension loads up and shifts the caster/camber on the inside wheel.
Yes, you did nail the look. Too cool that you got narrow white walls too.
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Post by meteorman on May 20, 2012 0:47:03 GMT -5
Thanks: Yes it's only the white wall tires! Meteor's only came with white walls I think! This one came with 700-14 firestones ? got one in trunk as spare! also jg spring work, one extra leaf added eachside in rear, like w2zero says will have to fix turn stops in front, weld in spacers.
Meteorman
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jg
Junior Member
Posts: 68
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Post by jg on Jul 11, 2012 21:35:19 GMT -5
mm......did you re-arch the rears & add one leaf ?..........are the fronts stock springs........?
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jg
Junior Member
Posts: 68
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Post by jg on Jul 11, 2012 21:41:19 GMT -5
w2,....... I get that front tire rub you mentioned when backing up & I've got 195/75/14 all around..........I'm pretty sure the suspension is somewhat sacked on all 4 corners....plus I''ve a bit of a list on the right rear..thinking about re-arching the rears......
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Post by meteorman on Jul 12, 2012 12:48:26 GMT -5
jg:
cut the u bolts, get rid of the rubber inserts and metal covers, check for broken springs, get new center bolts, make centering tool to center spring to rear end, alumnium/ steel bar, make sure aprx 1.125od with 5/16 or 3/8 hole size of center bolt top . 3/4 long for center bolt lower the rear end down, only some mercurys and fords use the rubber, most fords don't, cost about 25.00 35.00 bucks, add spring if needed, if you add spring, get new spring clamps, dearborn classic, I think, hope this helps! METEORAMN
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Post by meteorman on Jul 14, 2012 13:49:58 GMT -5
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jg
Junior Member
Posts: 68
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Post by jg on Jul 14, 2012 14:41:23 GMT -5
MM....thanx fior the info & for the pix, looking for ideas & suggestions.........eaton springs are always an option, there's a shop fairly close by........been making springs since the 1800's, curious as to what they might have..........
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Post by w2zero on Jul 14, 2012 14:56:12 GMT -5
A good spring shop can make your springs to order. Re: the rubber surrounds on the springs, there are reproductions available.
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jg
Junior Member
Posts: 68
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Post by jg on Jul 14, 2012 16:22:24 GMT -5
.........I believe the front end is more of a problem to keep original than the rear, due to the anti-harsh set-up..........which is, what ?........an additional bushing ?
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Post by meteorman on Jul 14, 2012 19:15:46 GMT -5
jg:
my front is stock, just welded in stops so the wheels don't turn as sharp, front sway bar 1.1/8 and 3/4 rear sway bar temperd, that pic is when I just got done w/ rear (Mercury Meteor calls that anti squat anti dive) and it works fine on my car, good luck, METEORMAN
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Post by w2zero on Jul 15, 2012 0:55:29 GMT -5
Yes JG, the rear is an extra bushing and link on the front eye of the spring. As long at that assembly is okay, you can just have new springs or better used ones put in.
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