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Post by eflow on Dec 21, 2005 17:04:20 GMT -5
Okay, gearheads, what's the difference between the 302 and 351 windsors besides the obvious displacements. Same block, right? Is it just the bore or something more?
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Post by Meteorgirl on Dec 21, 2005 17:42:18 GMT -5
It's the deck height. The 351 W is higher which places the heads further apart and makes the intake manifold wider. Meteorgirl
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Post by Meteorgirl on Dec 21, 2005 17:44:24 GMT -5
Which is also why a 351W doesn't fit into a Meteor without mashing the shock towers for exhaust clearance.
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Post by STU on Dec 21, 2005 18:02:17 GMT -5
The 351W has a 3.5" stroke vs the 3" stroke in a 302 and it's 2" wider at the heads than a 221/260/289 or 302. Same 4" bore as the 302. I'm building a 351W right now (357cid) for my t-bird project.
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Post by w2zero on Dec 21, 2005 20:06:53 GMT -5
You can quick look the difference by noting the water pump is even with the heads on the 302 and the distributor boss is even with the intake. The 351 has an inch more block both places.
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Post by STU on Dec 21, 2005 20:18:09 GMT -5
Yup, what he said. I use the 1" of block above the dizzy boss to spot them in the Junkyard.
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Post by eflow on Dec 27, 2005 14:51:43 GMT -5
Hey, thanks for the secifics. I knew the block was wider in some fashion but not exactly why. I'm picking up a '79 351 W out of a 4WD Bronco. Cheap price ($60) for the block, rotating assembly. and heads. If it looks okay after getting it magnafluxed it may be a future 408 build up for the merc.
If all goes well this weekend my car will be back on the road. I'll take some saps of the improved 302.
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Post by JohnC on Mar 17, 2006 0:00:56 GMT -5
Easy on turning the crank, many grind past the nitrid hardening. Depends on how much you want to put into it. As for stroker pistons, stay under the displacemnt where the piston pin hole, otherwise your motor will drink oil, like and Irishman drinks beer on St. Patricks day. Have the main journals align honed. Did I mention "plastigauge" everything? You can do a prtty close job of balancing things, by wieght and matching all pistons to within 3 grams, weigh each end of the piston rods and do the same. These new electronic kitchen scales are great Now if you really want to do things right, still have a shop balance the crank. Also go with splayed main caps. the splayed outer bolts will hold the block togather at 10,000 rpm. worth the extra if you ever want to race it. Way way better than a four bolt main block could ever beeeeeeeee. If money is not an object look at Hank the Crank, cranks nodular iron or cast steel. In the long run it cost no more to go first class. As for heads, AFRs 225's are pretty hot and will provide enough fuel to extend that rpm range. I have seen many a small block ford do well over 8,000 rpm and never fail. my 66 mustang I took off the 8,000 scale every raced day and never scattered parts. Good luck, do it right or ?
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