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Post by JohnC on Sept 26, 2012 21:30:41 GMT -5
Ok getting ready to try something different. Going to make the 260 into a 4 botl main set up and use a DSS main Support.
This is where the D.S.S. Main Support System comes in. Starting at $329.95 the D.S.S. Main Support System is a very cost-effective way to add strength to a production block without breaking the bank. Made of 3/4” Billet 6061-T6 aluminum, the D.S.S. Main Support System effectively dampens damaging harmonics, virtually eliminating main bearing walk. The Main Support Plate is fastened to the main caps using custom ARP main studs (included), effectively tying all five main caps together. By adding another main web structure you dramatically increase the block’s strength, helping both block and crankshaft life. Our Main Support System makes it possible to produce 650-plus horsepower from a production block.
O-ring the block with steel, hoping to keep everything together for about 500Hp and some higher RPM. Hope to able to pull 0.68 in 5th at 6500. then boost 100 shot. through the traps on the flying mile.
May or may not go with a 8psi Paxton. Depends on what we get on the chassis dyno, plus how it feels.
Going to do a M-II from Rod and Custom next spring, because the old Meteor is f**king squirrelly as hell at 135 mph. Also adding frame stiffeners and may add Rod And Custom 4 link rear set up.
Whole go is to be the fastest Meteor in the world. Which to go over 150mph we start hitting other safety crap,like set, roll cages, sealed engine compartment, 2 fire extinguisher systems on engine and one Passenger cage.
Have to have four inch lug bolts too.
Anyway do you think the 260 can handle 500 hp without splitting like the stock 302 block/
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eliot
New Member
Posts: 17
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Post by eliot on Sept 27, 2012 1:54:23 GMT -5
I hate to say it, but I would just get a 302 roller motor. If you get a 91-93 I want to say (best years of it), with a girdle you can easily make 500hp with a power adder safely. The problem with the 260 block's is the age. The metal is weaker then the newer 302 blocks, and so it has a lower point before breaking. Also you would be spending more for basically the same thing that you would get out of the 302. Pistons would have to be changed, cam, etc....its cool but impractical.
As for the front end, I would suggest getting the fatman kit. It comes with camber/caster plates that you can adjust, coil over swap, adjustable ride height, rack and pinion steering, and its easy to setup power steering with. Because of this it also allows you to notch the strut towers which really helps the engine bay room, and at the same time the swap requires sn95 spindles so you can use cobra brakes on the front with ease. Its much better then the mustang II setup.
My car is dead planted, if I had better tires, I would be better off (currently on p nero zero's). Four links can be done, but it depends on your goal if you want quarter mile, handling, etc....just remember that wheel/tire clearance will be an issue (it seems to always be on meteors).
As for your goal to be the fastest meteor in the world, that depends on how you define fastest. Personally I go by quarter mile time, but officially its boneville (i think). I know at the moment joeykid has the fastest quarter mile time slip (low 12s). As for the standing mile though, that would be an interesting one.
As for your question about the 260 handling 500hp, my answer is no, the motor couldn't back in the 1960s, and now almost 50 years of warm/cool cycles on the metal will not have helped that. If you have any other questions feel free to ask me. Best of luck to ya,
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Post by JohnC on Sept 27, 2012 22:08:58 GMT -5
Reason to stay with the 260 is rules for the class require a stock block from that year. Yea I know with a roller 302 500 is easy.
I dont want the strutt system, from Fatman. I have looked at both and the M ii from Rod and custom fits what I need better, to later go to a different class and big block.
Shot peanning the block inside and out seems to be the thing to do to relive those stress areas. A buddy just ran a model T motor at over 200mph at Bonneville. and drove it out there!!
I am not worried about outer fender clearance as I will radius the rear fenders for outside tire clearance.. Inner fender wheel tub has never been a issue.
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Post by w2zero on Sept 28, 2012 1:36:00 GMT -5
so with a 260 it is a 63? The 289 was available in 63 so you could build to 347 inches in a year correct block. The 260 was a mid to late year option in 62. Meteor had 221's long after they were no longer in Fairlanes.....Yes, they diverted them to the Meteor when they realized that the smaller engine wouldn't compete with the larger ones in sales.
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Post by JohnC on Sept 30, 2012 20:53:13 GMT -5
Yep I know what I can do with the 289. except they were not in the Meteor. If I was running a Fairlane that would be fine. Yes the 260 is the original one n the car. Yea I may have to go 289 block. but dont want to if I dont have too, using the 260 has lots of rule advantages, especially if someone pays a protest fee!!! In some of the assoc. its $4000. protest fee, and I pull one head the check bore and stroke, the money is mine!!! I can go .060 over or even sleeve a motor if need be. Its not about making the most horsepower as it is using the original motor bore and stroke, old style racing in the drag classes. One of the sanctioning authorities we will be running the old spot system racing, like it use to be in AHRA. No lights just flagmen, for start and finish. There is a fellow out in Kansas that runs a 63 Fairlane wagon thats top speed has exceeded 135 mph. But he is hurt by running a 4.6 mod motor. www.bborr.com/www.sorcrace.com/Plus some SCCA stuff.
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Post by meteorman on Sept 30, 2012 22:42:53 GMT -5
johnc: gottaloveit! stay with the 260,keep the compression lower, the RPM higher around 7500-8000+ if you can move enough volume thrugh the smaller valves, in mine 265.9 CID I have vodoo cam and 1.760 x 1.500 valves if I went bigger, might have had to notch cylinders,wanted to look stock under hood. you should be close to that 500 let us know what you come up with METEORMAN
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LER
Junior Member
Posts: 70
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Post by LER on Oct 3, 2012 13:23:25 GMT -5
Last weekend my 62 went 11.89 @113 at Topend dragways near Fargo. I am runnig a 347 with a c-4 trans and 4.11 gears. About all the HP iI can stand with 8 inch slicks.
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Post by roy on Oct 4, 2012 11:17:24 GMT -5
John - The main girdle is a bit of a help, i'm running one too But, the little 260-289 & 302's for that matter split across the top of the block, its not the bottom end that usually lets go first. Mine dyno;s at 425hp/408ft.lbs & i wanted to add a little turbo, but, with a 87 factory block, hitting over 500hp, its a time bomb! I should have anted up for a Dart or World block Seems that 500hp or over is the magic number for a factory block.
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Post by doberdawg on Oct 4, 2012 12:44:02 GMT -5
While on the subject of headers........I drive a 63 Meteor S33 & am considering buying a damaged 65 Fairlane Sports Coupe for it's power train - - - A 1991 Mustang 5.0/66 C-4 trans. The eng has tri Y headers. The trans is floor shifter, properly, through the 65 Sports Coupe console. My question is double: Will the tri Y headers fit in my 63 Meteor? , and since the consoles look "similar" can I take either the whole console from the 65, or the flat top where the floor shifter comes through & combine my 63 & the 65 console? I would like to avoid the usual shift by feel when one converts from fordomatic 2 speed to C-4. The conversion never has the pointer properly line up to the plastic shift indicator, even if one buys the c-4 indicator.
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Post by w2zero on Oct 4, 2012 18:24:06 GMT -5
everything will fit where those parts go. The shifter and pointer problem is in the trans and shifter arms. adjust the length of them and you can make the action match the indicator.
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Post by roy on Oct 9, 2012 10:51:00 GMT -5
John -spoke with some vintage race guys on weekend, most running a built 289's in Falcons to match the vintage rules Saying - to hit 500 hp you would have to rev.the snot outa that little beast to get even close, so your bottom end would have to be the best stuff available, can you even get a forged crank for a 260? Then you have the head problem with the 260's tiny bore, aftermarket heads/valves aren;t gonna clear & notching might get them fitted but, shrouded valves aren;t going to help HP. You know using a stock block a 289 can get to 400+ hp but, how long will a stock block last at over 400hp. You sure rules don;t allow to at least start with a 289-302?
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Post by meteorman on Oct 10, 2012 11:45:01 GMT -5
JohnC: go to (cobra automotive) they make vintage 289s that produce honest 500 + hp w/ stock parts! with todays restrictions, can you change the valve stems to 11/32 I did because of 125# and 300# spring pressure/ remember big valve holes / small valves make more flow ! and cheatin is competin! METEORMAN
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Post by roy on Oct 10, 2012 14:32:52 GMT -5
True Meteorman, Stefko Racing engines can also build a 500hp, 289 that rev's to 9,000rpm! But, you had better take a big wallet, your looking at $9,000.00 plus, plus!
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Post by JohnC on Oct 14, 2012 20:35:49 GMT -5
Ok here is right from a fellow that has built many hi performance 260 and 289. he is way old and way old school. A forged crank can be ground down, main journals and then they must be nitrited to get the outer hardeness back. DSS main bearing support with ARP studs. www.dssracing.com/D_S_S_Main_Support_System_s/6.htmand this valley girdle to stabilize www.horsepowersales.net/valleygirdlepro.htm the block at high rpm. GT=40P heads work as long as the lift on the cam does not exceed .589 and 330 @.050 which is plenty on the cam. There is two different sets of Oliver Rods that will work. The shop down south said make sure everything is balanced to within one gram and dont spin the crank on the balance-er with just one piston, repeat with all eight. They have some recommended valve springs due to floating. Also on the lifters bore and sleeve them to start the stabilizing of the top end. Sleeves are hardened bronze. Valve studs 1/2 inch if possible.. 1.6 rollar rocker arms. regular volume oil pump, the high volume is wasted HP and can cause harmonics. As forpistons if the cylinders need more than .040 sleeve them they say. Plus a tons of block mods to help push oil where it should go. Glytail the inside of the block before assembling so the block is sealed and that oil can move easier.
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Post by meteorman on Oct 15, 2012 19:26:33 GMT -5
JohnC: 289 2v & 4v heads use 1.78 intake valves, witch I have seen put on 260s but, when the valves get some carbon on them they drag on the cyclinder walls! w/ 3.800 bore, is true that GT-40P heads have 1.84 intake valves? most all 260s use 170 six cyclinder valves with .3125 steams! can you change the valves to 11/32 steams and run in that class? meteorman
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