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Post by S33METEOR on Oct 5, 2004 5:34:33 GMT -5
Finding the correct head for a particular application needs research. My project is a 302. I want 9.5:1 comp. at least. No more than 10.2:1 I am looking for a head that will operate with a .268-.270 deg. cam w/ close to .500 lift. I also want 1.94/1.60 valves. I will be using a stock alum. 4 brl manifold and 570 holley and hipo manifolds to 2 1/4 duels. I want to stick with iron. My question is - Does it matter which Ford casting I opt for this alteration? Are E7TE's the best donor? Are these lg. valves overkill or will they wake the small block up?
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Post by w2zero on Oct 5, 2004 15:28:09 GMT -5
Ported E7's would be a good choice. Mildly worked C9 or D0 heads would be good except that you would need to have a thirty thou overbore to avoid some shrouding. Your choice of exhaust will work with the GT40-P heads but it would be a good idea to radius the intake manifold where it bolts to the head to reduce turbulence. You could also polish the exhaust bowl and do some very light shaping next to the exhaust valve stem and top of the port next to the exhaust manifold and match the manifold there too. That's the setup I am using.
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Post by STU on Oct 5, 2004 17:27:23 GMT -5
I'm running ported E7's on my roller 5.0, they work great with my hooker super comp headers. Go with a came up to .520 lift, the heads won't flow past that anyways. I would stick with the stock 5.0 mustang cam or a E303 and use 1.7 roller rocks to gain the extra lift and reduce valvetrain wear. Slap a 600 holley on that puppy and your ready to drag... ;D
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Post by S33METEOR on Oct 6, 2004 5:47:38 GMT -5
If I port the E7's, valve job 'em and match them up to the intake and exhaust manifold do you think larger 1.94/1.60 valves will help or overkill? My goal, eventually, is to aquire 300-325hp at the crank at 4800 rpm, maintain drivability, reliability and 13 mpg avg.(gas mileage- bahh).
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Post by S33METEOR on Oct 6, 2004 5:49:17 GMT -5
W2, your engine compartment is beautiful
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Post by w2zero on Oct 6, 2004 14:48:08 GMT -5
Well thank you...... thankewverymuch.
You can see the daily driver dust if you look close. I do take the air nozzle and blow crap out from time to time. I have the car torn down right now and really Jonesing to drive. Very few shiny bits and not many colors. I have painted the manifolds with the POR-20 (or whatever it is) silver hi temp paint. The VHT in the picture sux, doesn't last all that long.
IF you used the P heads, you seriously limit the exhaust manifold choices to HiPo or stock. Price the heads, and the manifolds and pencil it out.
For about the same money you could port some E7's and buy coated SuperComp headers and have money left over. That would be new P's and new repro HiPo's.
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Post by STU on Oct 6, 2004 15:38:31 GMT -5
Here's my engine bay back when I dropped in the 5.0, it now has the W2zero dust....hehe
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Post by S33METEOR on Oct 7, 2004 5:59:08 GMT -5
Thanks all for the info. I am going to p/u a pair of E7's and port 'em out. I attend and awesome swap meet twice a year in CT and it comes up in 2 wks. Stu and W2 - you both deserve a congrats on the meticulous detailing. w2, you used por 15 stuff on the hipo's? I wondered what to use. I never had luck painting an exhaust manifold. Usually lasted about 2 wks.
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Post by w2zero on Oct 7, 2004 12:15:11 GMT -5
Not too sure how it holds up on the cast manifolds personally but I have seen a bunch of it at cruise-ins that appear to last. The POR products are spendy but they work. I use their chassis black, the epoxy putty, and the silver.
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