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Post by mercmaster on Jun 10, 2011 10:47:13 GMT -5
Thanks Pete, yet i don't posess the time or skills yet for fab work on headers with my schedule. Still looking for the best exhaust flow with the least amount of man hours. Guess the log manifolds stay for a little longer! ken-
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Post by rustynuts62 on Jun 10, 2011 15:30:33 GMT -5
I would like to learn some stuff here. I can weld well and have time, love headers but don't want to shell out bucks for off the shelf. I have a 260 with stock heads but may step up to Ebrock alums inthe future.
Flanges...what thickness is best and who provides the best quality for the dollar?
Tubes...what size is best for lower end torque?
kits...Is there a good kit that provides the flanges, bolts, gaskets, bends collectors etc?
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Post by w2zero on Jun 10, 2011 16:38:07 GMT -5
3/8 flanges would be dandy. You can cut some nice ones off stock 5.0 Explorer exhaust headers. Later ones had tube instead of cast.
The Sanderson headers advert 1-1/2" tubes that should be good for low end torque but will be a cork at high rpm if you really spin it up. Most all the big names for our cars are 1-5/8" best I can recall. My thought is to pick up the Explorer headers just for the flange and then buy a cheap set of Falcon or Mustang headers and do some modifications. The bleeding bends can cost a lot if you're starting from scratch.
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Post by roy on Jul 18, 2011 13:31:24 GMT -5
Rusty -any luck with header mods? Its soo hot here in Ontario, calling for 90 degrees & higher rest of week, a real test for my electric fan, varible speed controller by flexalite i installed coupla weeks ago I did install a small light so i could tell if it fires the fan up while cruising, which it doesn;t need to do, at least until today I noticed even on the hwy at 65mph, it will fire the fan up, I think its the Taurus fan shroud, it really covers the complete rad so i'm thinking even at speed airflow isn;t what it should be Maybe cut/make a couple of flaps, with some kind of hinge that would open when air rushing in is strong enough, not that she overheats, it stays right at 185. Now, if i just had AC, cause its just to d**n hot!!!
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Post by rustynuts62 on Jul 23, 2011 11:42:19 GMT -5
The Merc is on hold for a bit. My Dad passed away last week so I've been pretty busy.
On a good note, while going through his extensive tool collection I found all of my interior screws labeled on a sheet of cardboard and a pair of air bags with compressor.
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Post by rustynuts62 on Jul 23, 2011 12:42:09 GMT -5
Oh ya I also spotted a complete '63 2dr in a field with very little rust and original although faded paint. Old Rusty might just be a parts car for this one if I can pick it up for the right price.
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Post by roy on Aug 26, 2011 11:20:09 GMT -5
We've been driving the 62 almost everyday, putting miles on the new stroker, getting used to the d**n rattle forged internals make until the pistons warm up! Other than the totally wrong convertor, making out of the hole shots real soggy, the car is running at its best, the Fatman coil over conversion with p.rack & pinion is a dream vs stock. We are still scratching our heads trying to figure out how to get the ride height down where we want it tho. As you may or may not know, the kit features Mustang struts witah a coil over type QA-1 spring that allows you to crank it up or down approx. 3" , but, cranking the adjusters down as far as possible makes the spring so loose you bottom out on a good bump, a terrible WACK lets you know you just hit a bump! We did try a shorter spring (12"-225) but again, at low ride height the WACK reminds you your strut has bottomed out. So, is it searching the Mustang sites for a lowered strut or going to a company like RaceCraft for a dropped spindle. Racecraft only has a 2" dropped spindle which, if ins;t enough, is 500 bucks to find out & the kit spindle is modified from a stock front steer to rear steer so there would be no returning the spindles if they didn;t get the car down. So, i think the best route is finding a 79-93 Mustang Lowered strut (stock 79-93 struts come with the kit) & if that doesn;t work we could add the Racecraft dropped spindles to the mix. Any suppliers you know for these lowered struts do let me know.
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Post by roy on Aug 29, 2013 15:07:19 GMT -5
An update for anyone who cares - We installed the dropped spindles & with QA-1 250 rate- 10" springs & we got our cool, down low ride height we wanted. But, she actually sits a little to low, even with the adjusters cranked up to as high as the 10 inchers can go, so, over the winter, while were installing the Proff.products EFI 7 Aeromotive intank stealth pump conversion, we will install the 12"-275 QA-1's & we should have the ride height & good spring travel to boot. And, we scored a Coyote, must be the first write off new stang around & being in the right place at the right time, we scored! But, looking over the web, the Coyote ain;t just a "pull your 260 & drop in a 302" type install, so, maybe we will wait for that round Falcon or to show up & then attempt an install. for now, were fighting suspension qurks, that has us scratching all our heads!
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Post by 46yblock on Nov 3, 2013 21:34:37 GMT -5
I've been working on the final stages of a '55 Ford wagon part out. Getting close to seperating body from frame, then it is out of the shop!
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Post by w2zero on Nov 9, 2013 13:58:45 GMT -5
I am grinding along at a glacial pace. My aod trans was getting a little strange with some clunking and vibration. Pulled it apart and found that the planetary gears were orbiting outwards in the drum.... Shafts were hogging out their respective bores in the drum and it is a wonder it didn't just go supernova on me. Was going to rebuild it at my brother's shop and he sent it to a local transmission shop that owed him some favors. I got it back with all new parts for 400 bucks. Still have to do my tweaks to the newer valve body too and put it back together with the Lentech 3000 stall non-lockup converter I scored from ebay a long while back.
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