Post by minimandan1 on Mar 2, 2008 18:07:21 GMT -5
OK so here is a write up on the custom Anti Harsh removal that my father and I fabricated to use very common ford radius arm bushings found on many model ford trucks and SUVs. Total cost for me was about 150 for both sides so I saved close to $500 if had purchased removal from rare parts. The cost will go up slightly if you do not have a lathe or the right Die but it should still save money and work better (I think)
SUPPLIES
- 4 peices of chromoly tubing 3/4 by 2ft at .100 thinckness
-about 1 sqft chromoly plate at .100
-2 Radius arm bushing sets from your local parts house (Ex 1994 explorer or F150)
-1 peice of 1in steel stock 1ft long (maybe get 2 if one get messed up)
-2 home washer for inner 7/8 hole
TOOLS
-A lathe really helps but if you ont have a metal shop could do that part for cheap
-A MIG or TIG welder is almost a must, without one the job might get expensive where it becomes easier to buy from rare parts.
-3/4-10 Die
-3/4 Drill bit
-Caliper
METHODS
1) Dissasembling the Bracket
Start by removing the entire Lower setup from the car. Remove the Anti Harsh mount from the Anti-Harsh arm but leave the Anti harsh arm bolted to the Lower control arm. Disassmble the A-H mount completely so all that is left is the casting. I did this by cutting the spring with a cutting disk on both sides to get that our of the way.
I then cut a slot in the plate in the lover left of the picture and chisseled at it unitl I bronk through. 
I then used a press to press the enitre inner bushing attached to the other plate out of the bracket. You should be left with this 
I then burnt out the Big bushing.
2)Bushing preparation
Start by filing the rim of the bracket so that the welding shop can get a good weld. I didnt try welding because its a uge cast peice and needs a high power welder. Bring the bracket to a local welding shop and have them mount the cupped washer from the bushing kit onto the bracket with the cut down. This cost me 35 dollars for both peices. I dont have a picture of this step but the is one of the finished process. Then take a hack saw and cut the "tabs" off of the explorer bushings. Put them on a belt sander to get them smooth. Here are before and after pics of the bushing and the bracket after it has been prepped.
3)Jigging
Easiest to do the the LBJ out of the Arm. I do not have a picture of the first step sorry. What is important here is that you mantain the geometry of the origional peice with the chromoly, so basically we are trying to copy it so if fit on the car right. What is most imoprtant to maintain the spacial relationship between the 4 bolt holes on the control arm to the bolt on the anti harsh arm. Bolt the control Arm upside down a peice of plywood and then establish a reference so we can remove the A-H arm. Using angle Iron make two peices that will screw on the plywoond outsie of the Anti-harsh Arm and have 2 holes that will line up with the bolt holes on the arm. The space in between the bolt holes of the angle iron represents the bolt that goes throught the A-H arm . In the picture ther is a peice if tubing through the holes.
If the A-H arm was on in the picture the end would fit INSIDE the two peice of angle Iron. Now you are read to remove the A-H arm and begin fabricating the new arm. We will also use the jig to take measurments for machining the stock.
4) Fabricating of the Arm and tabs
I only have a picture of the finished product so it may be easier to look then read.
We will be welding the tubing to tabs that will then be drilled so that it is the tabs that mount to the control arm Bolts. Cut out 4 peices if .100 plate and them appropriatley to go over the bolt holes on the conrol arm but you also want to have some of it hang over the conrtol arm. The space that hangs over will be used to weld the tubing to the plates. It is time to heat and bend the rear peice of tubing. Remember that the chromoly must line up near perfect with the holes in the angle iron as well as overlap the tab that is most inboard of the car. I tested this by sliding a smaller peice of tuing through both holes in angle iron and the larger tubing. When it slid in easy I knew Ihad the right shape. Once the rear peice is bent to shape, line it up with your tabe and trace the cut you are going to make in the tab so that the tubing will sit in the middle of your tab. Remember to cut it small so you can file it out to a perfect fit. File the tab to fit arount the chromoly and make your fist weld. Cut the straight peice to size leave a litte big so it can then be "fish mouthed to fit perfect against the bent tube. Weld the straight peice to its corresponding tab. Then fishmouth the other end making sure to get the right angle so that the tabs line up with the holes on the LCA. make sure everything sets up right and then weld the two peices together. Now to drill the holes to bolt the tabs to the LCA. Keep the small tube throught the angle iron and the peice and then mark where you want your holes to be. Drill holes in tabs ( I believe 1/2 inch). You now have somehting that should look remarkably like this.
4) Measuring and Lathe Work
I forgot to take a pic of the machined peice so I will try to explain it and how to get there but it might seeem very confusing.It is a long eplanation but a very shot process. Basically you will now need a peice that slips of the fabbed arm (FA) and holds the bushings by going through them and then having threads for a bold that will hold the bushing. Basically there are 4 steps. First get it to size. There are three different diamater on the fianl peice. The orig 1in, the part that holds the bushings need to be the size of the hole- 7/8in, and finally the end will be 3/4 and then get tapped for a nut. The side with the 1in diamater will get drilled 1in deep with the 3/4 drill bit. This end willl slip around the FA. Make sure you drill in the middle so that it will line up with the bracket. I will give my measurment of the stock but reccomend you check them as my lower setup may differ from yours even 1/4 in. My peice looked like this.
Start by finding how long you need it to be 1in. Do this by measuring from where you want it overlping (about 1in ) where the stock will bottom against the bushing/washer. 
. Because the washer ill be inside will need to do some math. Center the bracket between the angle iron and then find distance from the angle iron the middle of the mount (where the casting seam is). Take this measurment and subtract the thickness of the inner(bigger) bushing, inner washer, and welded washer. You will now have a number figure from the angle iron to where then stock hits the inner washer. Now add the distance you need to overlap the FA and you have the distance of the 1in part of the stock. Hope i didnt confuse you. To find the distance of the 7/8 section measure the thickness off all the bushings and washers stacked togetther. This will be how long the 7/8 section will be. Leace the 7/8 a little shorter than the meausuments so you dont bottom out the nut. (leave it maybe 1/4in short). This means about 1/4 in of threads will be inside the outer bushing. I estimated 1.5 in for threads. After all the measuring add the three measurments together to get the total length of the stock. Machine the end to 3/4 thickenss. Before threading drill a 3/4 in hole about 1 in deep on the large side. This will slip over the FA. Now thread the 3/4 end of the stock. You are done with machining....DO NOT weld anything yet.
5)Final Install
I did it this way to when I tightended the radius arm it wouldnt pull the whole lower assembly out of whack. Install LCA into car. Mount bracket into car. Mount the stock with all the washers in place to the bracket. Torque the bolt to spec about 50-60 lbs...this will replicate how it will fit for final driving. Mount the FA onto the LCA while at the same time slipping the end of the tubing into the steel stock. Bolt the FA tabs to the LCA and tighten the 4 bolts. This should look now how it will when in car. Tack welf the stock to the tube. Take of car and do final welds. You will need to clearence part of the car so the arm can travel. Do this will a die grinder and some cheap harbor freight bits. Lastly I welded a vertical rib on the outer tab which takes most of the load to improve strength. Here is a pic of the the clearancing and the tab.
Here are some pictures of the outcome with it on the car.
Please let me know if you see anything in the pics that did not get explained or if anything needs better explanation or more detail. The total project took about 3-4 weekends. I highly encourange this abnd love the outcome....it looks harder than is. the cost breaks down like this
All the metal- $75
Bushing kits- $20x2=40
Welding the bracket- %35
Total 150.
Good Luck!
Dan
SUPPLIES
- 4 peices of chromoly tubing 3/4 by 2ft at .100 thinckness
-about 1 sqft chromoly plate at .100
-2 Radius arm bushing sets from your local parts house (Ex 1994 explorer or F150)
-1 peice of 1in steel stock 1ft long (maybe get 2 if one get messed up)
-2 home washer for inner 7/8 hole
TOOLS
-A lathe really helps but if you ont have a metal shop could do that part for cheap
-A MIG or TIG welder is almost a must, without one the job might get expensive where it becomes easier to buy from rare parts.
-3/4-10 Die
-3/4 Drill bit
-Caliper
METHODS
1) Dissasembling the Bracket
Start by removing the entire Lower setup from the car. Remove the Anti Harsh mount from the Anti-Harsh arm but leave the Anti harsh arm bolted to the Lower control arm. Disassmble the A-H mount completely so all that is left is the casting. I did this by cutting the spring with a cutting disk on both sides to get that our of the way.
I then cut a slot in the plate in the lover left of the picture and chisseled at it unitl I bronk through. I then used a press to press the enitre inner bushing attached to the other plate out of the bracket. You should be left with this I then burnt out the Big bushing. 2)Bushing preparation
Start by filing the rim of the bracket so that the welding shop can get a good weld. I didnt try welding because its a uge cast peice and needs a high power welder. Bring the bracket to a local welding shop and have them mount the cupped washer from the bushing kit onto the bracket with the cut down. This cost me 35 dollars for both peices. I dont have a picture of this step but the is one of the finished process. Then take a hack saw and cut the "tabs" off of the explorer bushings. Put them on a belt sander to get them smooth. Here are before and after pics of the bushing and the bracket after it has been prepped.
3)Jigging
Easiest to do the the LBJ out of the Arm. I do not have a picture of the first step sorry. What is important here is that you mantain the geometry of the origional peice with the chromoly, so basically we are trying to copy it so if fit on the car right. What is most imoprtant to maintain the spacial relationship between the 4 bolt holes on the control arm to the bolt on the anti harsh arm. Bolt the control Arm upside down a peice of plywood and then establish a reference so we can remove the A-H arm. Using angle Iron make two peices that will screw on the plywoond outsie of the Anti-harsh Arm and have 2 holes that will line up with the bolt holes on the arm. The space in between the bolt holes of the angle iron represents the bolt that goes throught the A-H arm . In the picture ther is a peice if tubing through the holes.
If the A-H arm was on in the picture the end would fit INSIDE the two peice of angle Iron. Now you are read to remove the A-H arm and begin fabricating the new arm. We will also use the jig to take measurments for machining the stock.4) Fabricating of the Arm and tabs
I only have a picture of the finished product so it may be easier to look then read.
We will be welding the tubing to tabs that will then be drilled so that it is the tabs that mount to the control arm Bolts. Cut out 4 peices if .100 plate and them appropriatley to go over the bolt holes on the conrol arm but you also want to have some of it hang over the conrtol arm. The space that hangs over will be used to weld the tubing to the plates. It is time to heat and bend the rear peice of tubing. Remember that the chromoly must line up near perfect with the holes in the angle iron as well as overlap the tab that is most inboard of the car. I tested this by sliding a smaller peice of tuing through both holes in angle iron and the larger tubing. When it slid in easy I knew Ihad the right shape. Once the rear peice is bent to shape, line it up with your tabe and trace the cut you are going to make in the tab so that the tubing will sit in the middle of your tab. Remember to cut it small so you can file it out to a perfect fit. File the tab to fit arount the chromoly and make your fist weld. Cut the straight peice to size leave a litte big so it can then be "fish mouthed to fit perfect against the bent tube. Weld the straight peice to its corresponding tab. Then fishmouth the other end making sure to get the right angle so that the tabs line up with the holes on the LCA. make sure everything sets up right and then weld the two peices together. Now to drill the holes to bolt the tabs to the LCA. Keep the small tube throught the angle iron and the peice and then mark where you want your holes to be. Drill holes in tabs ( I believe 1/2 inch). You now have somehting that should look remarkably like this.
4) Measuring and Lathe Work
I forgot to take a pic of the machined peice so I will try to explain it and how to get there but it might seeem very confusing.It is a long eplanation but a very shot process. Basically you will now need a peice that slips of the fabbed arm (FA) and holds the bushings by going through them and then having threads for a bold that will hold the bushing. Basically there are 4 steps. First get it to size. There are three different diamater on the fianl peice. The orig 1in, the part that holds the bushings need to be the size of the hole- 7/8in, and finally the end will be 3/4 and then get tapped for a nut. The side with the 1in diamater will get drilled 1in deep with the 3/4 drill bit. This end willl slip around the FA. Make sure you drill in the middle so that it will line up with the bracket. I will give my measurment of the stock but reccomend you check them as my lower setup may differ from yours even 1/4 in. My peice looked like this.
Start by finding how long you need it to be 1in. Do this by measuring from where you want it overlping (about 1in ) where the stock will bottom against the bushing/washer. . Because the washer ill be inside will need to do some math. Center the bracket between the angle iron and then find distance from the angle iron the middle of the mount (where the casting seam is). Take this measurment and subtract the thickness of the inner(bigger) bushing, inner washer, and welded washer. You will now have a number figure from the angle iron to where then stock hits the inner washer. Now add the distance you need to overlap the FA and you have the distance of the 1in part of the stock. Hope i didnt confuse you. To find the distance of the 7/8 section measure the thickness off all the bushings and washers stacked togetther. This will be how long the 7/8 section will be. Leace the 7/8 a little shorter than the meausuments so you dont bottom out the nut. (leave it maybe 1/4in short). This means about 1/4 in of threads will be inside the outer bushing. I estimated 1.5 in for threads. After all the measuring add the three measurments together to get the total length of the stock. Machine the end to 3/4 thickenss. Before threading drill a 3/4 in hole about 1 in deep on the large side. This will slip over the FA. Now thread the 3/4 end of the stock. You are done with machining....DO NOT weld anything yet.5)Final Install
I did it this way to when I tightended the radius arm it wouldnt pull the whole lower assembly out of whack. Install LCA into car. Mount bracket into car. Mount the stock with all the washers in place to the bracket. Torque the bolt to spec about 50-60 lbs...this will replicate how it will fit for final driving. Mount the FA onto the LCA while at the same time slipping the end of the tubing into the steel stock. Bolt the FA tabs to the LCA and tighten the 4 bolts. This should look now how it will when in car. Tack welf the stock to the tube. Take of car and do final welds. You will need to clearence part of the car so the arm can travel. Do this will a die grinder and some cheap harbor freight bits. Lastly I welded a vertical rib on the outer tab which takes most of the load to improve strength. Here is a pic of the the clearancing and the tab.
Here are some pictures of the outcome with it on the car.
Please let me know if you see anything in the pics that did not get explained or if anything needs better explanation or more detail. The total project took about 3-4 weekends. I highly encourange this abnd love the outcome....it looks harder than is. the cost breaks down like this
All the metal- $75
Bushing kits- $20x2=40
Welding the bracket- %35
Total 150.
Good Luck!
Dan
