Post by w2zero on May 21, 2007 22:25:40 GMT -5
There are lots of traction bars. Some bolt to the ubolts at the axle saddle and have a rubber snubber at the forward end that contacts the front spring eye upon acceleration. They are slapper bars and come in different designs that vary from a flat piece of steel to a triangulated ladder look.
The Traction Master type bars are common on old Mustangs since Shelby used them back when. They have a bushing at each end and are bolted on the lower spring perch while the front is welded to the car. Some of them are still marketed and use rubber, poly or even steel heim joints on the ends.
Mine are modelled after the Shelby type bars from way back except for the angles and bushing materials. I used 3/4" pivot bolts in cast stainless ends with poly bushings. The install is angled out towards the front and triangulates the axle since the stock leaf springs angle in towards the front. The length on mine is 33" and I only went with that figure since the boys at Tasca won a lot of races back in the early sixties. They are welded to the ends of the subframe connectors. It's a vector thing having to do with the moment, eh.
If you are going to seriously campaign your car at the track, then you should have a rear sway bar and remove or at least unhook your front sway bar. That will aid in putting the weight on the rear at launch. That would be a pain for a daily driver but worth maybe a tenth without the extra weight.
The Traction Master type bars are common on old Mustangs since Shelby used them back when. They have a bushing at each end and are bolted on the lower spring perch while the front is welded to the car. Some of them are still marketed and use rubber, poly or even steel heim joints on the ends.
Mine are modelled after the Shelby type bars from way back except for the angles and bushing materials. I used 3/4" pivot bolts in cast stainless ends with poly bushings. The install is angled out towards the front and triangulates the axle since the stock leaf springs angle in towards the front. The length on mine is 33" and I only went with that figure since the boys at Tasca won a lot of races back in the early sixties. They are welded to the ends of the subframe connectors. It's a vector thing having to do with the moment, eh.
If you are going to seriously campaign your car at the track, then you should have a rear sway bar and remove or at least unhook your front sway bar. That will aid in putting the weight on the rear at launch. That would be a pain for a daily driver but worth maybe a tenth without the extra weight.