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Post by minimandan1 on Jun 7, 2007 19:21:54 GMT -5
i meant if you want to drive your car real hard, and be at the track a lot then locker, but if you want a more combined streetable car then a posi might be better. will you be able to hear a locker over te sound of exhauast??
joey, to reasure me, how much hp.tq you pushing at crank or at wheels on your 8?
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Post by Joeyman on Jun 8, 2007 8:17:50 GMT -5
I don't know the exact number's but we guesstamate 500hp motor
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Post by w2zero on Jun 8, 2007 18:55:46 GMT -5
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Post by minimandan1 on Jun 8, 2007 21:12:56 GMT -5
yes i have been looking there a bit. I do not quite understand how the whole thing goes together, but ill look at the one in the shop. Is the posi traction the entire unit?? Or do you still need to put the ring and pinion onto it??? Ehh ill ask the guys at the shop in a couple weeks. I have been thining about the Aubrun b/c of the fact that joey is running tons of power to his and its working well.
W2 would you hesitate to buy their version of the of th Posi? They make a version of the Ford Tracction lock post for over 100 bucks cheaper?
Thanks for info~!
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Post by w2zero on Jun 9, 2007 1:30:54 GMT -5
Any of them are fine. I bought the locker when he had an ebay store. Always had good feedback too. There are more complete ones on the site too. They will look expensive until you price one from Currie.
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Post by ca on Jun 9, 2007 1:31:20 GMT -5
the posi as well as lockers,spools etc. are just a way of connecting the axles, you still need to add the ring and pinion. like the pinion turns the ring gear and the ring gear is mounted on the posi,locker etc. and the posi, locker etc. turns the axles = that is just a simplified way of sayin it try this page and keep clicking next to get a good idea of how all this stuff works- auto.howstuffworks.com/differential1.htm
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Post by minimandan1 on Jun 9, 2007 14:27:51 GMT -5
thanks 4 all the info, leaning towards either the MAE version of ford trac loc, its 200 cheaper than the real thing or the AUBURN POSI- well see what ends up going into the engine first. Also, with a posi do you still need all the other stuff too??? (ALL BEARINGS, CUPS, SEALS, SHIMS, PINION NUT, CRUSH COLLAR, HOUSING GASKETS, GEAR MARKING COMPOUND, RING GEAR BOLTS)
-dan
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Post by ca on Jun 9, 2007 14:43:26 GMT -5
yup, you need that stuff!
see why i THINK the 8.8 is a good thing? rear for a hunerd bucks, rebuild for the Ford posi - 50 bucks and if you can't find a 5 lug rear then another 60 for 2 axles you're gonna need springs anyway so........ 150 to 210 and will handle all the HP you can afford to make for quite awhile
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Post by minimandan1 on Jun 9, 2007 17:07:17 GMT -5
yea but then you have to pay to have the axles shortened and resplined, and also have to shorten the housing yourself or pay to have it done. And prob redo brakes to stay on the safeside. -shoten axles $200 about?? -new brakes- at least 100? -shoten housing lots of time
I have not found any place where you can buy parts to completely rebuild posi+geaars for 50 bucks?? If I can find an 8.8 the right length then it seems much more doable
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Post by ca on Jun 9, 2007 19:13:06 GMT -5
pretty sure you don't need to narrow the rear if you use Tbird/Mustang - like i said before - it fits my skinnyass Capri. still not sure bout the Explorer rear. have you measured one yet? brakes a hunerd bucks? ?? get the right size backing plates and you may be able to use the brakes you have now - IF the ones(backing plates) you have dont fit. probly could make'em fit easy enough. BE A HOTRODDER DAN = THINK OUTSIDE THE BOX ;D you should see all the messages i get from the Euro Capri crowd askin me how i hung the 8.8 in the Capri without usin leafs. it was kinda easy, even for me
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Post by ca on Jun 9, 2007 19:19:14 GMT -5
i just found this on another site - not sure how correct it is= "The Mustang/LTD/T-Bird rear end measures 54 1/4", housing flange to flange."
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Post by minimandan1 on Jun 9, 2007 19:40:07 GMT -5
ahhhh i can only think outside the box once ive done it inside the box first ya but arent i looking for end to end, what does flange to flange tell me?? wouldnt you at least want to have the calipers/pistons rebuilt on a 10++ yr old brake system from a junk yard so yuo could put some trust in the brakes?? Are you saying I could use my brakes from my 8 on an 8.8???
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Post by ca on Jun 9, 2007 20:01:24 GMT -5
quote "Are you saying I could use my brakes from my 8 on an 8.8???"
i said may,as in maybe ;D
Dan, dont forget that they 9" is THE best rear whilst we're talkin bout all this other stuff but Ford did use 8.8 in the 600 HP Mustang Cobras a couple years ago - i just read that somewhere ;D
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Post by ca on Jun 10, 2007 11:12:56 GMT -5
Dan, you also gotta remember the very best part of the 8" and 9" is that you do the set up on the bench instead of layin in the driveway = much easier
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Post by minimandan1 on Jun 10, 2007 14:40:40 GMT -5
0_o you gotta do the 8.8 under the car? why cant you do it out of the car on the bench?? Or do you just mean that there is no third member, and the rebuild must happen in the housing..........IE: if i picked up an 8.8 from a yard I could rebuild it out of car and then install it...?? the Fox Mustang/LTD is 59" & T-Bird 60 1/2" -hmmm jay was saying something about removing the some ABS rings, that would shorten it just a bit.....? Some rangers and most Stangs are 28 spline axles. meteor 8s are also 28 spline axles. Dont know alot about this as I have never seen either of them, but is it possible to just shorten the housing on the 8.8 to the same size as the meteor 8 and then use the axles from the 8 in the 8.8??? Then you you wouldnt have to shorten any axles or buy new ones? Only work would be cuting off the outer flanges and some (of the 8.8), then cutting away the extra and welding the flanges back to rest of housing. Is this possible or am i overlooking something quintessential??? If it is, that could make the job real cheap. Only downer, is that it means the merc is down a lot longer..........=( remember this is my daily driver.
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