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Post by STU on Sept 23, 2005 3:29:51 GMT -5
Oh, that's the #1 header tube crossing over the rest.
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Post by Meteorgirl on Sept 23, 2005 10:07:09 GMT -5
I asked about the shock towers moving in and the old Ford guys in the club say they do move but it's negligible. Usually happens on big block cars that are slammin at the track and putting extra force on the crossmember. This causes the towers to flex or move. They suggest that unless you are noticing hood gap variance on the sides of the hood from front to back, they are probably OK. When we put my super comps in we barely even scratched the paint off the headers, I'm thinking the new mounts my help your case.
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Post by eflow on Sept 23, 2005 13:25:42 GMT -5
I ordered the kit and the mounts. If the mounts do the job then the rest will just get returned. As it is now I can't even get the passenger one remotely near the spot. Thanks for all the help Stu, great pics.
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jay123
Junior Member
Posts: 81
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Post by jay123 on Mar 2, 2006 17:43:25 GMT -5
Stu, and everyone else... Will the Super Comps work with GT-40P heads? Don't remember any mention of this. Maybe I passed over it. Just wondering..
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Post by minimandan1 on Nov 4, 2007 16:03:28 GMT -5
OK now to bring back the header issue! WOOT for my 5.0 project! Dougs now makes a header specifically for our cars. The part # is D662Y. It is a "tri-y" header vs. the "full-legnth" hookers. I think that the tri-y's are just as long as the full legth just different shape. I have heard from two sources one being a custom header outfit that "dougs makes a much better header and that the only hookers to get are the super comps and those are marginal too". I haver done a lot of reading on the 6134 and seen a lot of happy people with them here and on ford muscle. Only saw one post of the d662ys but he was hapy as well. Both are about 550 coated so price is not as much of an issue when comparing them. what do you guys & gals think between the two as far as shape (tri-y vs full legth), size, flange thinkness, brand. Dont know that much about headers so not making the call yet and still open to both options. Love to hear the input. Thanks, Dan Here are the space on both headers: store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=DOU%2DD662Y&view=1&N=700+store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=HOK%2D6134%2D1HKR&view=1&N=700+
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Post by ca on Nov 5, 2007 1:09:40 GMT -5
lot of header opinion is just that - opinion. try Y's are spose ta give a lil better bottom and mid range so that would be better for the street and a lil strip time. if your gonna build for the track and twist it a lil higher then the longer tubes would be the choice BUT that is just opinion.try to find a side by side on the net usin a similar setup that you intend to have. Shelby used try Y's on the early Mustangs i think and he would have had his choice i'm sure. headers are kinda like intakes and cams = like where do you want the HP/torque and how much do you plan on makin AND what are you gonna use the car for.
both of them header companys dont make junk or they wouldn't have been in business as long as they have. i'd bet if you bought a set and had a real problem they would make it right. sometimes people buy stuff thats used up = headers are gonna git thin over time from the inside out, and if they git a leak they might tend ta bad mouth the company, but them headers bought used could have been around a LONG time.
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Post by minimandan1 on Nov 6, 2007 21:26:13 GMT -5
only Ca? Common we're not that tires of the subject
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Post by minimandan1 on Aug 21, 2008 19:25:50 GMT -5
?........ I just got my 5.0 in the car 2 days ago =0 and the headers fit like a charm, only thing is that i was trying to put the starter in today and im having a really hard time.........is it even possible to put in the starter with the passenger side header in place of does it need to be removed and held up a little bit? If anyone has any insight that'd be awsome.
thanks, dan
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Post by Meteorgirl on Aug 22, 2008 0:27:20 GMT -5
Two things you can do.
Take out the idler arm bolts and pull the arm down enought to get the starter in. Don't disconnect the centerlink or anything, just pull it down and the starter goes right in. Then put the idler back up and the bolts back in. Nothing changes on your alignment.
OR
Get a small starter from a later model 302 or 5.0. There is both a small body standard one and an even smaller gear reduction one. They both fit in without dropping the idler. I put the small std one in a few yrs ago when the drive started sticking in the big old original. Then hubby got small gear reductiion Bosch unit from the Bosch rep as a "sample" and I put that in just to try it. It sounds like an old Chrysler when it turns over but it turns better than any regular starter hot or cold PLUS it has tons of header clearance to stay cool.
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Post by 60sFordGuy on Aug 22, 2008 8:29:48 GMT -5
Hey MG,
I just searched "Bosch Starter", and got a list of 10 starters for 89 Crown Vic. All but one list the starters to fit 5.0 FI, and the one listed to fit 5.0 carbed. I'm changing over from FI to carbed on the 5.0 I'll be using, and am wondering how FI/Carbed makes a difference for starters.
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Post by Meteorgirl on Aug 22, 2008 10:27:58 GMT -5
Starters only care about the year of the block and type of trans as that what makes then different. Different body style sometimes use a different starter beacuse the exhaust manifold or pipe makes it necessary to turn the starter housing/solenoid one way or the other to clear. It does not change the actual mounting. If you get me the year of the engine and trans type I can get you the correct number if you are looking for either a small or gear reduction type. The size of the ring gear does not make a difference to my knowledge as the bellhousing compensates by moving it out.
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Post by 60sFordGuy on Aug 22, 2008 12:07:02 GMT -5
MG,
1989 5.0 from Crown Vic, 1971 C4 from Torino. I couldn't understand why EFI and Carbed would require different starters. I did the search for "Bosch Starters", and none that were listed were Bosch. I will appreciate any numbers you can provide. The flex plate is 157 tooth (as I recall, some time ago you had provided info that this would be correct for my application) and 11" TC with 10.5" bolt pattern will bolt to it. The starter is still mounted to the engine, but has the appearance that it had been sitting in mud, so I doubt that it is in workable condition. I don't plan to drive the car in any other than street/cruising conditions, so probably don't need anything elaborate. During the dismantling of the 5.0, I'm finding things that make me question if the engine is the 75,000 mile one that I was supposed to get. I plan to thoroughly go thru it, whatever the case may be. Hopefully all will be good for the rebuild.
Thanks in advance.
Thayne
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Post by roy on Dec 13, 2008 20:30:10 GMT -5
I;d like to know how the Dougs fit too The Hookers will fit, i think i had to undo the pass. side motor mount, lift up mill about 2", to get that side in, the dr. side i know comes off from below, i just took mine off The only problem with the Hookers is trying to change spark plugs, you just don;t want to do this, even changing plug wires is friustrating! Wondering what the Dougs are like , not only to install but to work around once installed. miminumandan - From what i remember on my hooker install, tjis is going back 4-5 yrs, i think you have to put the starter in place before header install
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Post by Meteorgirl on Dec 13, 2008 22:30:27 GMT -5
I remember when I had the regular starter in you had to undo the starter bolts and fiddle with the starter while putting the headers in. We changed to the small body starter and now with the plugs out the header practically falls out on to the floor. Yes the drivers side will actually go in and out without touching anything. We put my TCI convertor in a month back and dropped the exhaust to make it easier to move the trans in and out. I had the plugs out because I was changing them anyway. When we took the header bolts out to give more room to get at the bellhousing bolts, the headers actually wanted to fall out onto the floor. I know others have had a few issues before with shock towers and mounts but mine fit like a text book install with clearance everywhere. Oh. minor detail, if you have stock or stock height valve covers, no issue. If you have the real tall covers like I do, you have to remove the pass side cover to get the header in as it has to go straight up and then just pivots into place. The pass side will hit the tallcover on the way up into place. Another trick, change your plugs with the valve covers off. Saves hours, knuckles and frustration.
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Post by roy on Jan 3, 2009 16:52:26 GMT -5
I think the problems with Hooker install that some are having could very well be motor mount related. Since changing motor mounts a while ago, i too notice the hookers certainly come off a whole lot easier than when i had the original squished mounts, when we originally installed em.
Jay:No, the Hookers do not fit those P heads, i;m told the spark plug angle on 2 or 3 won;t clear the header flanges
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