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Post by Joeyman on Apr 7, 2008 9:24:29 GMT -5
I got the car out Friday night and brought it home. Saturday I washed it up nice and clean put some gas in it and I was off to the track. I got there about 1:00 got it inspected and put my numbers on the window. They finally called up street class time trails. I make my fist pass. Car spun the tires out of the hole I had a 1.91 60foot. My burnout out sucked because the car kicked out sideways when I did it and I was afraid of hitting the wall so I let off. Second time trail I get up there did a very nice burnout tires were nice and sticky this time car did a 1.75 60ft and ran 12.34 @ 108mph so I was ready for first round eliminations. Meanwhile people were breaking down left and right. We had 2 oil downs already during time trials. About 6:30 first round eliminations started. I dialed my car 12.33 and was ready to go. I get up there did a good burnout again. I cleared out the carb a few times then I pre-staged brought the RPM’s up to 3000 rpm slowly bumped inn and staged the car. Lights come down I hit the gas and BOOM clunk clunk clunk I let off the gas hit the brakes and shut er down. Take my helmet off and seatbelt hop out of the car and I see 5 track members rushing over with towls mops and a guy carrying my driveshaft away. I just stood there didn’t know what to do. Meanwhile there was a big bunch of oil leaking under the car. We let it drain for a few minutes then pushed the car up against the wall and rolled it back and out of the way. The 3rd member case blew up the pinion came out with the drive shaft. The pinion gear still looks good and so does the ring. I’m sure the locker is still good. I have an 8inch rearend from 1962 under there and in 1962 it was the weakest rearend of all the 8inch around. It doesn’t have all the webbing the newer models have. So we believe it was case failure. Funny part is I just spent a bunch of money on it a few days ago to have a Detroit locker installed. Well we know the locker was working good making the tires hook and bite hard out of the hole. I use to race last season on a broken worn out auburn posi. It still hooked ok I’m sure it wasn’t putting as much stress on it than the locker did Saturday. Not only did that happen but it messed up my exhaust and to top that off it busted my fuel line and I still don’t know if my transmission messed up or is still good. So now I really don’t know what to do. I found two 8inch 3rd member Sunday at a swap meet I got the guys phone number. He had a drum to drum 8inch rearend out of a 68 fastback mustang with 4:11 gears for $125 also a 72 8inch out of a mustang with hi-way gears drum to drum for $75.00. He also had 2 9inch rearends drum to drum for $200.00. My mechanic who is a big MOPAR guy and did all the work to the car has a DANA 60 sitting in is garage told me it’s available if I want it for $150.00. He will narrow it and set all of it up for me and install it. I don’t know what to do. I am leaning for the Dana 60.
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Post by ca on Apr 7, 2008 12:50:38 GMT -5
coulda been a couple things on that case, fatigue being one of them. throw together another 8" since you have the parts and start building a Dana or a 9" in the meantime. lil duct tape and a vice n hammer could straighten that driveshaft out ;D NO LOOP?
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Post by Joeyman on Apr 7, 2008 13:32:28 GMT -5
Nope no loop....I know I know.......It's going on this time. I may have a 8ich Detroit Locker for sale in the near future if any one is interested. It has less than 100 miles on it and 2 passes at the track. I think my ring and pinion are still good 4:11 gears. We have to inspect everything real close. Priced to sell the locker cost me 500 bucks and it's still brand new. If I can get $375 for it it's a good deal. Check out this link. 8inch strength. We have the weakest 8inch in our cars. www.mustangandfords.com/techarticles/127_0310_ford_differential_builders_guide/8_inch_light_duty.html
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Post by w2zero on Apr 7, 2008 14:19:00 GMT -5
Impressive 60' times on an eight inch. That's part of what blew it out. Look at the pinion snubber and the trans tunnel. Major contact on both I'll bet. You hook to the gods and wind up the rear axle, smack the tunnel and everything goes to hell. Also inspect the front half of your leaf springs. Any gaps, bows?
My own personal choice is the 9" for obvious reasons but the Dana is good enough. You need some traction bars.
Also, now is the time to consider subframe connectors and re-routing the brake and fuel lines. I figure you will add a drive line strap anyway.
Jeeze, it sucked to be you that night. At the least the fix is mostly swapping parts, though major parts.
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Post by Joeyman on Apr 7, 2008 14:27:01 GMT -5
I'd like to get sub-frame connectors and some kind of traction bars but don't know what kind. I hate the classic kind that hang real low under the car (trac bars). I think they'd look stupid on there. Any pics or more info on sub-frame connectors and traction bars. Are subframe connectors really necissary for our cars? I'd like to take it to this shop here. Check it out www.griffinracecraft.com/ check out there customers cars.
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Post by w2zero on Apr 7, 2008 23:06:12 GMT -5
The connectors are pretty easy. Twelve feet of inch and a half by three steel tubing .080" wall and connect your front and rear torque boxes together. Makes a good place to route the battery lead as well as the fuel and brake lines too. You can roll your own on the traction bars or buy some cal-tracks or whatever. Slapper bars hang down and look like crap but work very well. Then reinforce the pinion snubber and add a urethane bumper to it.
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Post by Joeyman on Apr 8, 2008 9:02:18 GMT -5
That looks nice.
What rearend do you have in your car w2zero
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Post by ca on Apr 8, 2008 11:57:36 GMT -5
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Post by roy on Apr 8, 2008 14:06:51 GMT -5
d**n -she blowed up real good! If you want a later 8" housing, with the extra ribbing, let me know Dad is trying to clean up the place & has an empty 8" housing you can have for shipping. (70 -8" mustang) A.P.
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Post by Joeyman on Apr 8, 2008 14:16:00 GMT -5
it's tempting trust me money wise but I don't feel comfortable going with another 8inch. I don't want it to last let's say a few years then blow up again on me. I already have to replace the driveshaft fuel line possibly rebuild the transmission and who know what else. Don't want to go thru that again. I want it bullet proof.
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Post by w2zero on Apr 8, 2008 15:52:18 GMT -5
My own personal pref is the 9" but the 4wd crowd have gobbled up most of the Danas for their crawlers. I just think the 9" parts are more available cheaper.
That fabricator you linked to does nice stuff and I am sure they can stiffen up your car to suit your power. Just be sure to ponder your future hp first, then build for it now. You could build a fairly bomb-proof 8" from scratch now but for the money, go bigger.
The traction bars I built are attached to the ends of the subframe connectors.
Consider mini-tubbing as well since you have to cut a housing to begin with.
My way of doing stuff has mostly to do with having the tools, skills and not that much dinero.
Without the extra structure holding the torque boxes together, you will eventually see rips starting in the body just ahead of the C-pillar. The Thunderbolt Fairlanes even had a crossmember 33" ahead of the rear axle that anchored the traction bars and the frame extensions that mount the transmission crossmember were welded solid with a 2x2" square tube welded from them to the rockers.
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Post by Joeyman on Apr 8, 2008 16:17:47 GMT -5
I could pick up a 9inch for around $200 I also have a Dana 60 sitting waiting for me. I think I'm going with the dana. I do like the idea of the subframe connectors and will look into it. I don't know about the traction bars yet. Yes I'd like to do the mini tubing so my back tires would fit a little better. But don't know what all would be involved to do that. I have some sort of reinforcing up front near my trans. But not sure how it all works.
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Post by w2zero on Apr 8, 2008 18:01:25 GMT -5
That piece of pipe serves the same purpose as the square tube on the T-bolt.
Minitubbing would run into some serious fab work. A buddy with an early Dart cut the inner fenders at the pinch weld and added 3" for a big tire. You would have to move your stamped channel frame inboard to do that. Then it gets really busy back there.
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Post by w2zero on Apr 8, 2008 19:58:04 GMT -5
An oddment my elder brother brought up..........
The only lube I see in that rear end is some blowback ATF from the transmission. Take a dip into the housing and see if there is any 90 weight in there with the pieces. Usually 90wt gear lube sticks like sh!+ to a wool blanket and I can't see any.
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Post by my63babydoll on Apr 8, 2008 20:30:17 GMT -5
Dude,
You messed that thing up! Drop a narrowed 9" under that thing hit the track and see if you can rip the out!!!
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